🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.